Mini
See here for a list of the parts you'll need.
NB: Make sure you use an official power supply with at least 2.5A. Poor power supply will directly affect the Boombeastic's functionality.
The only tools you'll need are i) a soldering iron; ii) a screwdriver and optionally, iii) a wire stripper. Scissors or a cutter might also come in handy (for step 2c)
The Boombeastic is made of 8 wooden frames: back, front, and 6 in between. The inside frames have numbers in the top left corner going from 1 to 5, the one without a number should be number 6.
The assembly order will be the following (presuming you're stacking the plates onto a surface): 1) Backplate, with large rectangular gap at the bottom, and the 3 close holes in the top right corner. 2) Layers 1-6, so that the number faces up, on the top left 3) Frontplate, with print towards you, and large rectangular gap at bottom.
Get your soldering iron ready, as we're about to solder our parts.
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Grab the amp breakout along with the screw terminal block and the pins which came with it. (See the image at the start if you're unsure what these are.)
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Orient the amp breakout so that the star and + and - icons are facing towards you.
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Place the terminal block on the amp breakout, so that the short end of the pins fit through the 2 large holes, and the holes on the side of the block face away from the amp breakout.
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Solder the terminal block onto the amp breakout.
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Next, grab the pins. You'll need 7 pins -- the Adafruit set of pins we received came with an extra pin, so we snapped one off the end before soldering.
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Orient the pins so that the longer end is on the same side of the amp breakout as the terminal block. Solder the short ends of the pins onto the amp breakout.
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Grab the LED backpack and the set of pins that came with it. You'll need just 4 pins, so you might also have to snap off extra pins here
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Solder the pins onto the backpack, so that they are sticking up toward you when you are looking at the chip on the backpack.
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Connect the LED matrix to the LED Backpack. BE SURE TO DO THIS THE CORRECT WAY: Ada fruit instructions
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Grab your bi-polar electric wires, and cut to roughly 15 cm in length (this leaves some margin for error, in case you need to redo any soldering later on)
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At each end of the wires, strip off roughly 1 cm from each cable so that the copper threads are exposed. Note: Separate the red and black cables as needed towards the end, eg for a few cm
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Take one end of the wires, and twist the copper threads as much as you can so that there's no loose thread.
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Solder the twisted copper ends onto to the speaker's contact holes, so that the black wire connects onto the negative pole on the speaker, and the red wire onto the positive pole. How: To do this, fill each speaker contact hole with the resepctive copper wires, then bend the cable and solder as much surface of the hole as you can. Make sure the solder fully covers your copper threads.
Important: From here on we assume you have already provisioned your Pi and configured your Boombeastic application onto an SD card. If not, do this now: Provision Pi | Configure application
- Grab the backplate. Fit 6 of the small screws to the frame, so that the screw heads are on the outer side of the backplate, and so that the only holes that won’t have screws are the four most outer corners. Put backplate back down, with screws facing towards you.
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Now, grab your Pi. Note: Make sure your SD card is fitted in the Pi.
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Place the Pi onto the backplate, over the four screws near the cutout. Screw on four spacers or nuts to hold it in place. (See image in 2b)
- Fit the amp breakout over the two screws in the upper right corner of the backplate and fasten using the bolts
By now, your backplate should look like this:
- Take the front plate of Boombeastic and fit the LED Backpack in the rectangular slot intended for the LEDs. You'll want the pins to be on the inside, i.e. on the opposite side of the logo.
NB This is a very tight fit. You might find that you'll have to chip away at the edges of the hole using some sharp blade (eg scissor/cutter)
- Still on the frontplate, align the speaker over the circular cutout, with the leads facing the closer edge of the back of the faceplate.
Fasten it with your remaining 4 small screws and nuts, so that the heads of the screws are on the outside.
It's time to put our frames in place. Make sure you do this before moving on to the wiring!
For this, place and stack the frames in the following manner:
- On your left, place your front frame, face down, so that the LED backpack is on the top right corner.
- On top of your front frame, place layers 5 and 6, so that the numbers are on top right corner, facing the LED backpack
- Now, grab your backplate, and thread the four long screws in its four corner holes, so that the heads face the outside of the Boombeastic
- While making sure the screws don't fall out, place the backplate down next to the frontplate, to the right, and so that the amp breakout is on the top right corner.
- On top of the back frame, and threading through the screws, stack layers 1-4 (so that the number is on the top left)
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Now, wire the speaker to the amp breakout: Twist your copper wires as much as you can, untighten the terminal block screws, fit in the copper wires, and then tighten the screws.
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NB: Remember polarity! The red cable goes to +, and black to -.
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Now, Wire the LED matrix to the Pi
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From the jumper jerky peel four wires. You can use the wiring diagram to wire the matrix, or the table below.
Important If using the wiring diagram above, note that it displays the matrix viewed from the front -- since you'll be wiring while looking at the back, you should be placing your wires on the LED matrix in the inverted order than the one shown on the diagram (i.e. your purple wire should be on the left, followed by orange, black and then red).
| Wiring diagram color | LED Matrix pin | Raspberry Pi pin |
|---|---|---|
| red | VCC | 2 |
| black | GND | 6 |
| orange | SDA | 3 |
| violet | SCL | 5 |
You can use the wiring diagram to wire the amplifier, or this table:
| Wiring diagram color | amp breakout pin | Raspberry Pi pin |
|---|---|---|
| red | Vin | 4 |
| black | GND | 14 |
| blue | DIN | 40 |
| yellow | BCLK | 12 |
| cyan | LRC | 35 |
Note: the GAIN and SD pins on the amp are not connected.
Our Boombeastic is now good to go! Well, in theory at least.
Before we bolt it all up, now is a good time to test that it's working as it should.
First, power up your Pi. Within 30 seconds or so, you should see the LEDs light up, and a smiley face should appear on the matrix.
That indicates that your Pi is properly provisioned, and the LED matrix is correctly wired.
To test for the latter, open an application container terminal in your device's Resin dashboard, select Host OS -> Main, and execute i2cdetect -y 1 This should return a diagram of your LED wiring, rendered as a matrix of 77 pairs of digits. If the LED backpack is correctly wired, you should see one pair of digits, and 76 pairs of hyphens (--)
(i2c is the protocol through which the Pi talks to the LED matrix. It allows up to 77 or in some cases 154 devices to be wired to a host. Every 2-digit is an address, or a device.)
Test your speaker. Play music onto it - is sound coming out? And how is the quality? If the quality is poor, you might have a power issue.
If there is no sound at all, maybe it's a wiring or provisioning issue.
To test for the latter, open an application container terminal in your device's Resin dashboard, select Host OS -> Main, and execute speaker-test -c2 -t wav This should play a handsome voice repeating "Left, right, left, right" -- if not, check your device configuration (To stop the command, type Ctrl C )
ALl set? Time to close up your Boombeastic. To do this, take your front layers, and place them onto layers 0-4, threading the four screws through the corner holes.
This may take some work to move the wires so the case can close.
You can bend the pins if needed (eg. to move the amp jumpers out of the way of the speaker).
And voila! You are now done.